Thursday 18 December 2014

Waiting for a weather window in Wineglass Bay

Wineglass Bay
We're anchored at the further end of the bay
Wineglass Bay is a wonderful place to wait for the forecast winds to change for a Bass Strait crossing - anything but north and not too strong thanks.

Knowing we were here for  a few days we walked in to Coles Bay. Well, most of the way. The bush walk is very pretty but the road from the car park to Coles Bay is long and dull so we hitched, with great success. It's a life affirming moment to be told you don't look like a serial killer.

Would you give this man a lift?
We had pretty good weather overall, the wind in the bay picked up to a 50+kn on one occasion but the anchor held.

The entrance to Wineglass...

...and on another day
View of the beach on a sunny day...

...on a cloudy day the hills behind disappear...

...and a rosy sunset
Our days were pretty relaxed, reading: Ice Station, Michael Riley; The Narrow Road to the Deep North, Richard Flanagan; Merciless Gods, Christos Tsiolkas; The Assassination of Margaret Thatcher, Hilary Mantel; Revolutionary Road, Richard Yates,  listening to music:  Bon Iver,  Bob Dylan, The Tallest Man, songs starting with W & B & D, watching movies: Some Like It Hot, Spirited Away, Magic Mike, Bringing Up Baby and we've got great internet access so there's lots of screen time.

Lunch
The cray boats.
They'd work all night setting and retrieving their traps,
then spend the day in the bay. 
Bogart. part of the RPAYC cruise to Tasmania.
Had a nice visit from Joe Ellam and Rob Starkey.
Southern Belle came in a few days later and dropped by for coffee.

A daily visitor to the bay

Lots of campers and walkers


Leaving Wineglass puts us on our final leg to Sydney, 627nm. 
Heading home for Christmas.



.


Friday 12 December 2014

Hobart for a few days then back to Wineglass.

The overnight sail from Wineglass to Hobart was cold, rolly and long and getting in to Hobart was a welcome relief.

The Iron Pot, the oldest lighthouse in Australia,
marks the entry from Storm Bay into the Derwent River
The RYCT is next to the Wrest Point casino which we had no need to visit,
we played 500 on board instead
We parked the boat at the RYCT
and headed in to town
Shane on the ROMA to MONA
 You get a good view from the ewe
Kicking back on the MONA lawn
The new icebreaker

The Spirit of Tasmania dwarfs the icebreaker
Alas, Shane left us in Hobart and headed back to the civilisation of Melbourne. Looking forward to finishing that game of 500 - the score stands at C 310, J 240, S (230).

Shane,  I think this is David's house.
He talked about the terracotta boat shed.
Probably playing WWF
With a house on it this could be out of Spirited Away

The Captain 
Dunnalley channel markers.
The entry to the Dunnalley Canal is via a swing bridge.
By radioing ahead the operator opens the bridge.
The bridge closes behind us.
Making way through the Dunnalley Canal

Sea vineyards at Blackman Bay 

Steering through the channel in Blackman Bay,
look, no hands!

Ile des Phoques is a tiny island between Maria Island and Schouten Island.
Hundreds of seals live on the island and they erupt into noisy activity at the sight of a boat.

Squirty things in the water.
If you look carefully you can see beaded sprays of water.
We made it to Wineglass at dusk after a very pleasant day of sailing. Blowing 40+ here in the protection of the bay but its sunny and sparkling and a beautiful place to stop for a few days and wait for the northerlies to blow through.

Tuesday 9 December 2014

Manutai finds Flinders heroin and scones, and Freycinet wine....


Hello sunshine!!
The crew was all smiles after a trouble free 24 hour passage from Deal Island to the sunshine of the town of Lady Barron on Flinders Island. With Manutai fuelled and the crew coffeed up at Alex's store (one of life's characters who confided in us as we pulled up in the rental car for fuelling at his $2.00 litre ..."I'm makin' a bit of a killing on this fuel...I usually make about 10 cents a litre but now am making about 20 cents a litre"). Anyway, we headed off for the day to explore Flinders Island. With a population of about 600 people and located in the middle of Bass Strait, I wasn't sure what to expect from Flinders Island. However, we had our priorities right....at the top of our list was to find a pub we could kick back in and have a leisurely lunch...


First stop was at Trousers Pt. on the east coast. This is a beautiful bay with fine white sands ringing the clearest smooth aquamarine water. The setting could be anywhere in the tropics - except for the water temperature at 15C. Anyway, driving into Trousers we were speculating on how a bay might be called Trousers!! Well, it didn't take long to find out. As we pulled into the car park of Trousers, before us was a mature rather rotund chap with a shock of long unkempt white hair, pulling his trousers on. Yep..at Trousers Point! He had just come in from a swim in the buff. Averting our eyes, we chatted to him. His name was Stanley Johnson, a Brit travel journalist who was writing a piece for London's The Evening Standard on out-of-the-way-places in Australia you must visit. Stanley has also been an EU representative, author and a range of other personas in his 73 year life time. He is also father to London Mayor Boris Johnson...Boris is a dead ringer for his old man!! We then moved on about 10 kms up the road to the largest settlement on Flinders Island - Whitemark.

View of Strzlecki Peak from Whitemark, Flinders Island
The residents of the rival village of Lady Barron refer unkindly to the residents of Whitemark as "Skidmarks". It's the sort of jocular rivalry that you hear between Sydney and Melbourne residents. Anyway, we headed into Whitemark and had a great lunch at the Interstate Hotel followed by scones, jam and cream at a nearby cafe.

Jeremy and Shane scoffing scones, jam and cream

Eh mon..whaddup mofo?
A lesser known factoid is that Tasmania is the world's largest producer of opium and our drive that afternoon took us past hectares and hectares of ripening poppies. Beeeeeutiful..and none of us are quite sure of what happened to the rest of that afternoon, or the next day or even the day after that????


wtf????

Jeremy rowing out to Manutai at Wineglass Bay Freycinet Peninsula..."eh...come back here..what about us Jeremy?"


Looking out over Wineglass Bay...before some wine!!

Anyone for 500??
Cards became a staple source of entertainment for the crew. Specifically 500. Not because any of us were particularly good at 500, rather we had to play something that gave Jeremy and Shane some chance of beating Claudia. For those not aware, in spite of Claudia's non-english immigrant background, she is a complete terror when it comes to the Scrabble board. "Spaz"(triple word score), "wite"(apparently the present past participle of the verb "to wite"???)...and there were others!!! Anyway...the odds with cards were more even with Claudia, than freakin scrabble.

Our fishing neighbours in Wineglass Bay

A rather longer Sunday lunch at Coles Bay...500 cards at the forefront!!

Unbelievable hiking. Very strenuous...note Jeremy's Paul Frank backpack in the foreground!!

Death and Deal Island - Manutai's crew sent to investigate

Manutai approaching the foreboding cloud shrouded Deal Island
On November 29, 2014 the crew of Manutai arrived at Deal Island, in the middle of Bass Strait. Few people visit Deal Island with the only occupants being unpaid caretakers "Spud" and Kim who had been alone on the island for about 3 months. The island has had a history of unexplained deaths since white settlement in 1858. These included 1 death of a sailor on September 23 each 11 years since 1858; a kamakazi-like plane crash on September 23, 1943 killing all 4 crew; the unexplained death of lighthouse keeper Reg Morgan on September 23 1966; and more recently, the unexplained death of a rabbit. The Tasmanian Historical Society had requested the crew of Manutai investigate the cause of these deaths.


Jeremy and Shane discuss investigative approach
The crew had to be careful about the approach to the investigation. Rumour and myth(?) abounded that previous caretakers had gone a bit troppo and were likely to resist any investigation. Jeremy and Shane concocted a cunning plan that first involved shrouding the island in cloud so that their investigation could proceed "undercover".....


Deal Island "under cover"

The Manutai investigators going incognito
The next thing the crew of Manutai did was to disguise their appearance by placing dark lenses over their eyes. These lenses are called SUNGLASSES(Tasmanian's have never seen sunglasses before - no need for them really). The wearing of sunglasses was an added precaution in the event that the cloud shroud(mmmm...rhymes!) lifted and the already suspicious caretakers became inquisitive. Jeremy was very happy with the plan and proceeded to hug Claudia and Shane who tried to look "comfortable".....

Mysterious markings in the sand
And the next thing that the investigators did was to search for anything suspicious that could explain the many deaths on the island. It didn't take long before they found the footprints of an unknown creature in the sand. Claudia insisted they were markings from an antipodean amputee with painful ingrown toenails on the beast's remaining limb. To Shane they seemed like the footprints of a ordinary bush variety wallaby. Still, he had learned to take notice of Claudia's instinctive senses. They had managed to steer us into - and out of - trouble previously.


Manutai anchored a safe distance from the beach...
Jeremy was careful to ensure that whatever the cause for the unexplained island deaths, that it did not find it's way onto Manutai. Cleverly, he anchored the yacht a distance from the shoreline. The creature, or whatever it was, would need to be a very good swimmer to get aboard.

Were these birds responsible for the deaths on the island?
Walking up the hill towards "Spud" and Kim's house the group came across a gaggle of bullockoronis, descendants of the gran-bullockoronis of the middle miocene era some 15 million years ago. The bullockoronis were aptly named partly for their bullock like skull shape, but more particularly for their love of raw bullock meat. They have a reputation for being savage carnivores capable of descending and devouring a whole bullock in a 5 minute piranah-like frenzy. Unfortunately, there were no bullocks on the island....


Manutai amidst the descending foreboding gloom...

Interested in 4G reception..sit here but watch for the bullockornis scats..they are plentiful

The hidden path to the lighthouse....
Former lighthouse keepers had reported odd noises, strange happenings, and all manner of other spooky things at the lighthouse and en route to it....

Remnants of a bullock devoured by bullockoronis gaggle....
It didn't take long before the group came across remains of poor beasts which had clearly suffered horrible deaths.

At 309 metres the Deal Island lighthouse is the highest lighthouse in Australia and the spookiest...
After passing several grave yards, and climbing the steep path to the lighthouse the group finally arrived at the island peak. Many things made no sense on this island. It was more than the unexplained deaths. It was the placement of a lighthouse on a peak which meant that it was perpetually shrouded in cloud. What's the point of that? And it was odd that the island, which is never visited, and where shipping rarely passed near, would even have a lighthouse. I mean what is the point of that? And there was something very odd about an island that had a museum and no visitors? Jeremy, Claudia and Shane climbed the lighthouse to see if they could use the height advantage of the light to discover anything. What they did discover up top was 50 knot winds, plenty of fog and zero visibility.



Even the plane crash wreckage somehow looked like some primeval skull
Just beneath the lighthouse were the remains of the 1943 plane crash in which 4 Australian airmen died. Eye witness reports of the time, and subsequent forensic analysis suggest a 9/11-jihadist-like attack by the airmen on the island. It made no sense to the group, but nothing did on this island.

Even the wallabies were puzzled...

..and the abandoned lighthouse keeper's homestead peered ominously over the islands terrain whilst the
bullockorosis kept a vulture like vigil outside......

     In the end we gave up trying to solve the mystery at the lighthouse and started walking back   to the boat. Shane was so happy he jumped for joy. Claudia just looked at him and muttered "fool"......
Meanwhile Jeremy, wearing his usual Paul Frank monkey nap sack stared out to sea. Shane joined him and mirroring his neanderthal like poise, ...staring...and then he realised what he was staring at.....

.....three albatross....

....Shane was astounded at Jeremy's perceptual skills....

....but they needed to head back to the boat before darkness descended...the long and winding road from Winter Cove....

....it was a most unpleasant and taxing walk up the hill from Winter Cove....

...but Claudia and Jeremy were very happy...almost honeymoon happy..but hang on..what happened to the plot of this story...the mysterious unexplained deaths..etc etc etc....??????

.....and the role of the abandoned lighthouse...?
....and the isolated, lonely cluster of buildings...?


....and the rock pile which covered a multiplicity of skeletal remains...

....none of this mattered to Jeremy and Claudia...who decided their life ambition was to revisit the island at some stage in the future as caretaker replacements for "Spud" and Kim. The quest to solve the cause of the mysterious deaths on Deal Island would have to wait for the next visit.